Câmara de Lobos: the fishing village where Churchill painted
Visiting Câmara de Lobos near Funchal: the harbour and its colourful boats, Churchill’s viewpoint, poncha bars, the best viewpoints and how to combine it with Cabo Girão.
Câmara de Lobos is a working fishing town just west of Funchal, built around a small bay full of brightly painted boats. It is lively, a little rough around the edges in the best way, and home to some of the island’s favourite bars and fish restaurants.
What to see
- The harbour, with fishing boats pulled up on the slipway and fishermen mending nets. The town lands much of the black scabbard fish eaten on the island.
- Churchill’s viewpoint. In 1950 Winston Churchill spent a winter holiday in Madeira and painted the bay from a terrace above the harbour. A plaque marks the spot.
- The old town lanes behind the harbour, with the small fishermen’s chapel of Nossa Senhora da Conceição.
- Pico da Torre and other viewpoints above the town, with views over the bay towards Funchal and Cabo Girão.
Poncha
Câmara de Lobos is one of the places most closely linked with poncha, the island’s drink of sugar cane rum, honey and lemon. Try one in a small bar near the harbour, made fresh with a wooden stirrer. See poncha.
Food
Grilled fish and seafood, limpets with garlic butter, and espada (black scabbard fish) are the things to order in the harbour restaurants.
Combine with
- Cabo Girão, the glass skywalk over the cliff, 10 minutes further west.
- Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, in the vineyards above the town, where the Wine Festival holds its harvest celebrations.
Getting there
By car, about 15 minutes from Funchal. Horários do Funchal and Rodoeste buses run frequently from the centre. Evenings are a good time to visit, when the light softens on the bay.