Fanal forest: Madeira’s ancient laurel trees in the fog
Fanal, on the Paul da Serra plateau, where twisted centuries-old laurel trees appear out of the mist. How to get there, when the fog comes, the PR13 trail and how to visit responsibly.
Fanal is a gently sloping meadow at the north-western edge of the Paul da Serra, scattered with huge old laurel trees called til. Some are many centuries old. When the fog rolls in from the north coast, the twisted trunks appear and disappear in the mist, and the place feels like a fairy tale. It is one of the most photographed spots in Madeira.
Getting there
Fanal is on the ER209 road between the Paul da Serra and Seixal on the north coast. There is a car park by the forest house. There is no useful bus; come by car, taxi or tour. From Funchal allow about 1 hour 15 minutes.
When to go
- For the fog: usually afternoons, and more often from autumn to spring. Check the webcams at Rabaçal and the north coast for clues.
- For clear views: mornings, when the meadow is often sunny and you can see across the plateau.
- Cows graze freely here; drive slowly.
Walking
You can wander among the trees near the car park; this is not a classified trail. The PR13, Vereda do Fanal, is a longer linear walk that links Fanal with Campo Grande on the plateau through forest and moorland. Like all PR trails it needs a booking and a fee. See trail fees and booking.
Visit responsibly
- Don’t climb on the trees or carve them; they are fragile and very old.
- Stay on paths when the ground is wet to protect the roots.
- Drones are restricted in protected areas. See drones in Madeira.
- Take your rubbish home.
Bring
A warm, waterproof layer. It can be 10 °C colder than Funchal, and fog is wet.
Sources: IFCN, Fanal and PR13 Vereda do Fanal