The Desertas Islands: a day trip to Madeira’s wild nature reserve
A boat trip to the Desertas Islands, home of the monk seal: how trips work, what you can see and do, the rules of the reserve, and how sea conditions affect your plans.
On a clear day you can see three long, bare islands on the horizon south-east of Madeira. They are the Desertas: Ilhéu Chão, Deserta Grande and Bugio. Uninhabited apart from the reserve’s wardens, they are a refuge for wildlife, and one of the last homes of the Mediterranean monk seal, called lobo-marinho in Portuguese.
How a trip works
Licensed boats run full-day trips from Funchal and the east of Madeira, usually in the calmer months from spring to autumn.
- The crossing: about 1.5 to 2.5 hours each way, depending on the boat and the sea. Dolphins often join the boat on the way.
- On the islands: visitors can land at Doca, on Deserta Grande, where the wardens have their station and a short path. Swimming and snorkelling stops in clear water are common.
- The day: most trips leave early in the morning and return in the late afternoon.
What you might see
- Dolphins and, sometimes, whales on the crossing
- Seabirds, including large colonies of shearwaters
- Monk seals, if you are lucky; they are shy and protected, and boats keep their distance
- Extraordinary volcanic cliffs and very clear water
Rules of the reserve
The Desertas are a strictly protected area. Only authorised operators can take visitors, landing is limited to the permitted area, and you must follow the wardens’ instructions. Don’t leave anything behind or take anything away.
Sea conditions
The open ocean between Madeira and the Desertas can be rough. Trips are cancelled when the sea is too high, and even on good days the crossing can be lively. Take seasickness tablets if you need them, and keep a flexible day in your plans.
What to bring
Sun protection, a hat, swimwear and towel, snorkelling gear if you have it, a warm layer for the boat, water and snacks. Some operators include lunch.