Curral das Freiras and Eira do Serrado: the Nuns’ Valley
Visiting Curral das Freiras, the village in a deep volcanic valley, and the Eira do Serrado viewpoint above it: the story, the chestnuts, the walk down and how to get there.
Half an hour from Funchal, the village of Curral das Freiras lies at the bottom of a huge, steep-sided valley surrounded by peaks. For centuries it could only be reached on foot. Today a tunnel brings the road in, but the view from the rim is as breathtaking as ever.
The story
The name means “the nuns’ corral”. In 1566, when French pirates attacked Funchal, the nuns of the Santa Clara convent fled up the mountains and took refuge in this hidden valley, which belonged to the convent. The valley kept the name.
Eira do Serrado
The viewpoint at Eira do Serrado, on the rim of the valley at about 1,100 metres, gives the classic view down onto the village and the surrounding mountains. A short path from the car park leads to the lookout. There is a hotel with a restaurant and a café.
The village
Curral das Freiras is known for chestnuts. Try chestnut cake, chestnut soup, chestnut bread and chestnut liqueur in the cafés. Around the start of November the village holds its chestnut festival, the Festa da Castanha.
Walking
An old cobbled path zig-zags down from Eira do Serrado to the village, about an hour downhill. Many people walk down and take a taxi or bus back up, or the other way round for a good workout. The path is steep and can be slippery when wet.
Getting there
- By car: about 30 minutes from Funchal. Go up to Eira do Serrado first, then down to the village.
- By bus: Horários do Funchal runs buses from Funchal to Curral das Freiras; check the timetable.
- On a tour: many half-day tours include it.
When to go
Morning, before clouds gather on the peaks. Check the webcams if the weather looks mixed.